There are certain drives where the journey and the stopovers en route are as exciting and pretty as the place itself. The Kinnaur district in Himachal Pradesh is one such place. AutoCar (Dec. ’08) takes a holiday and comes away suitably refreshed.
First things first: It is a good idea to get your car fully checked and serviced, carry spare tyres, warm clothes, sun block cream and a food hamper as the availability of dhabba’s dwindle after Shimla.
The drive is wonderful and one should drive slowly to soak in the picturesque beauty and unhurried lifestyle. Roads are constantly accompanied by the raging Sutlej; tarmac suddenly disappears under your wheels to bring a sense of adventure and traffic jams are caused more by sheep than Lorries.
But all the while it is essential to steer clear from the edge at hair-pin turns and adjust accordingly for the oncoming vehicle. Till Shimla there are lots of dhabbas on the way plus there is also a Macdonald and two Café Coffee Day outlets. After Shimla, only little tea shops dot the way till Thanedar. The Banjara Orchard Retreat is a good place to stay with amazing views and tasty ghar ka khana.
Further up, do plan to stay at least three nights at Sangla. This little village at the head of the Baspa valley has lot to offer. A walk to the Rakcham village is a must and Sangla is also famous for the Kamru Fort and Kamakshi Temple. One can’t go wrong with the Banjara Camps, the campsite is one of the most popular options with 18 Swiss-style tents, buffet-style meals and bonfires and barbecues every night. Also the drive from Sangla to Chitkul is stunning and AutoCar (Dec. ’08) recommends an early start to have the road all to yourself, to take pictures and soak in the view.
 Going ahead towards Nako, the drive is spectacular as the Sutlej runs wild and unrestricted by hydro-electric projects that are common between Rampur and Sangla. Quaint little villages have basic tea shops and one vehicle at a time bridges under which the Sutlej runs furiously. The verdant scenery is transformed at Puh with trees giving way to barren mountains. Here Nako is like an oasis in this barren landscape of towering snow-capped mountains. The main attraction at Nako is the lake in the centre of the village, the locals revere it and the stones surrounding the lake have ancient scriptures carved on them. The origins of these stones remain a mystery and they are said to go back centuries.
Accommodation in Nako is very basic and the choice is either guesthouses or tents. While the latter have fantastic views, toilets are basic and hot water doubtful. All over the Himachal one can stay in PWD guesthouses, Himachal Tourism guesthouses or Government Circuit Houses. For Banjara Camps and Resorts at Thanedar, Sangla and Tabo, visit www.banjaracamps.com for details and booking information. |
