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| Poised to hit the Western ghost
leaving the coastal palms behind. |
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This, they say, is God's own country and the green gateway of India. An
enchant-ingly beautiful, emerald green land strewn with rivers, lagoons,
backwaters and rich vegetation in between. From the bewitching beaches
of Kovalam to the lush tea plantations in the hill station of Munnar,
Kerala shows divine prejudice. A truly fertile land, if there were two
colours to describe Kerala it would be blue and green with its sublime
backwaters and acres of fertility. Here is nature on a platter.
Voted as one of the 50 must-visit destinations of the world by National
Geographic, Kerala has got its tourism act together - the tourist is king
here. No other Indian state provides as many facilities for tourists as
does Kerala. Honeymooners can have custom-made backwater cruises, nature
lovers can indulge in guided jungle walks and avid trekkers can traverse
the splendid western ghats around Munnar. Kerala is all this and much
more. A lovely getaway and a rendezvous with the natural world.
That's where we take you this month - from Kochi (Ernakulam) to Kumily
(Periyar) and Munnar and back. Splendid roads, rolling oceans of green
tea bushes, crisp mountain air, craggy hills, and wildlife can all be
yours to savour. This destination down south will definitely be your cup
of tea, the pun very much intended.
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| Planning
for Kumily and Munnar |
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| A ferry ride is a great way to
view wildlife alongside River Periyar. |
Kumily,
Periyar or Thekaddy? It's a little confusing. Here's the simple explanation
to it. The river around which the game reserve is called the Periyar.
The actual reserve, starting from the entry gate, is called Thekaddy.
The area outside where the shops and most hotels are located is called
Kumily.
The best time to visit these places is from November to April. Sightings
of wildlife at Thekaddy are better when it's hot because the animals are
always near waterholes, quenching their thirst.
The hill station of Munnar is pleasant all year round and early morning
outings will need woollens as it is chilly. An insect repellent and a
pair of sturdy walking shoes are a must for jungle walks and treks. During
the day sunscreen lotion, sun-caps and sunglasses go a long way to help
bear the heat. For your vehicle a routine service would do just fine.
The roads are terrific and the distances short.
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| The
Drive |
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road from Kochi is a state highway with its fair share of traffic. The
going is pretty slow till you get to Ettumanur via the towns of Tripunitura,
Kanayannur and Vaikam.
The state highway that leads to Kumily goes through Kottayam, but it saves
time and distance if you turn off at Ettamanur towards Pala, and join
the state highway again at Kanjirapalli. Though this route is via a regional
road, the state of repair is superb and there is very little traffic too.
From Kanjirapalli it's a mountain road drive to Kumily as you are now
in the Western Ghats.
The 108km drive from Kumily to Munnar is splendid with its fair share
of blind corners and breathtaking views. Jeeps and buses come hurtling
down the road at breakneck speeds. In Kerala public transport drivers
believe that "The road is my race track and myself is the Schumacheraa".
You can see the pure pleasure on the driver's face as he struggles with
the steering wheel to throw the bus around tight corners at full throttle.
The last 20 kilometres to Munnar take you through splendid tea gardens
that will take anyone's breath away.
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| In
Kumily and Munnar |
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| The River Periyar meanders through
densely forested Thekkady. |
Kumily is a
small one-road town and it really makes no sense using the car there. It's
more fun exploring the place on foot. The little restaurants, tea stalls
and quaintartefact shops will all be missed if you simply zoom past in your
car.
Munnar is bigger and you'll need the car to get to places like Top Station
(2200 metres), which is 40km away, and DevikulamLake with its mineral waters
and picturesque surroundings.
Avoid using the horn except around corners - Munnar is a very peaceful town
and most tourists seem to understand that it should be kept that way. There
are many taxis and vehicles in town, but surprisingly you don't hear any
blaring horns.
The 137km drive from Munnar to Kochi on NH 49 is a dream. The surfaces are
smooth and the roads have wide, sweeping corners. Some blind corners too
and at times you'd be tempted to overtake a slow truck around a corner.
Don't - await a clear line of vision.
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| Survival
guide |
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Sturdy walking shoes are a must if you plan to go on long walks
or treks. A crepe bandage, ointment or sprays to relieve inflammation.
» Rain gear as the rains
are sudden and swift and the tea plantations in Munnar provide little
cover.
» Warm clothing even in May. Average temperature is 15 degrees
C.
» Carry both a Tamil as well as a Malayalam phrase book. Few
locals understand either English or Hindi.
» Check out a good local guide who can take you exploring
to places off the beaten track.
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