Periodic valve lash adjustments are required because most of these engines have mechanical lifters or cam followers. These were used to cut costs (and boost performance, some might argue). Hydraulic lifters are more complicated and expensive, but run much quieter and eliminate the need for period valve lash adjustments. Hydraulic lifters or followers are now used on almost all engines. But if you're driving an engine that doesn't have them, you'll have to live with periodic valve lash adjustments or suffer the consequences.

Valve adjustment: The valves are adjusted on pushrod engines by changing the height of the rocker arm or turning an adjustment screw on the end of the rocker arm. The clearance between the tip of the rocker arm and valve stem is adjusted to a specified clearance which is measured with a feeler gauge. The spec may require the lash to be set with the engine hot or cold. It makes a difference so always refer to a shop manual for the exact clearances and adjustment procedure.

It's also important to note that the specified valve lash for exhaust valves is often greater than that for intake valves. This is necessary because exhaust valves run hotter than intake valves and grow longer due to thermal expansion when the engine heats up.

Each valve must be adjusted with the piston at top dead center so both valves are closed and the lifters are resting on the lowest portion of the camshaft. The best approach is to start with cylinder number one, then proceed in the engine's firing order.

Move up the ladder to the next level of management. If you're problem is with a new car dealer, then contact the auto manufacturer's regional office or their customer satisfaction department. If your problem is with a chain store of some type, contact the regional or national office. If you're dealing with an independently owned business, speak directly to the owner.

Certainly tell all your friends and anyone who will listen what a bad experience you had with this particular service facility. It won't do you any good but it may help others steer clear of trouble.

Consider legal alternatives. You can always refuse to pay and fight it out in court. But legal action is always expensive and time-consuming whether you win or lose

General precautions:

• Don't smoke when working on any fuel related components (fuel filter, carburetor, fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel tank or fuel lines). Better yet, don't smoke at all. It's bad for your health!

• Have a fire extinguisher nearby just in case. The fire extinguisher should have a "B" (liquids & grease fires) and "C" (electrical fires) rating.

• Don't smoke or get any sparks near the battery. Batteries contain hydrogen gas which is very explosive.

• Never crawl under an improperly supported vehicle. In other words, don't trust a jack alone to hold the vehicle up.

• Always use a pair of support stands positioned underneath the vehicle to keep it from falling on you. Make sure the support stands are of sufficient strength to hold up the vehicle's weight, too. Don't use blocks of wood, boxes, wheels or bricks for supports because these may slip or collapse and allow the vehicle to fall.

• Always disconnect one of the battery cables when doing electrical repair work (as when replacing a starter, installing a radio, fixing a broken switch or wiring, etc.). This will prevent accidental shorts that could damage the wiring or start a fire. This is also a very important precaution to heed when working under the dash of any vehicle equipped with an air bag. Crossing the wrong wires might set off the air bag (which could cause injury and is very expensive to replace).

•Never disconnect or unplug any electrical connector while the engine is running or the key is in the "on" position (unless specifically instructed to do so as part of a diagnostic procedure in a shop manual). Unplugging connectors while current is flowing through them creates a voltage spike that can damage sensitive and expensive electronic components.

• Do not wear loose clothing, jewelry, rings, neckties, scarves or bulky gloves when working on your vehicle. If you have long hair, tie it back or cover it. These items may become entangled in pulleys or moving parts causing serious injury, dismemberment or death!

• Watch out for the drive belts, pulleys, fan and other moving parts when working under the hood if the engine is running.

• Watch out for hot stuff, too. If the engine is running or the vehicle has been driven within the past half hour or so, the engine, radiator, exhaust manifolds, catalytic converter, muffler and pipes will be hot.

• Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine. Always allow the engine to cool for at least an hour before attempting to open the cap. Even then, use extreme caution. Place a rag over the cap, then loosen it slowly to the first detent or stop. At this point any residual pressure and steam should be released. Wait until all pressure has escaped before removing the cap the rest of the way.

• Avoid electrical shocks when working around the ignition system. The normal battery voltage in passenger car and light truck electrical systems is only 12 volts and will not harm you. But the ignition system bumps the primary voltage up to 25,000 to 40,000 volts which can give you a nasty shock if you touch a spark plug wire, the ignition coil or distributor cap while the engine is running.

• Wear eye protection when working under the vehicle (to keep dirt and debris from falling into your eyes), when pounding or grinding on anything (to keep metal chips out of your eyes), when jump starting the battery (to keep acid out of your eyes should the battery explode), when working on air conditioning components (to keep refrigerant out of your eyes), and/or when doing anything that might pose a risk to your sight.

• Do not open up any brake lines or replace any components in a vehicle equipped with an "integral" ABS system (one where the master cylinder is combined with the ABS modulator, pump and pressure accumulator) without first depressurizing the system. This can usually be done by depressing the brake pedal 24 to 40 times while the key is off.

• Use caution when opening any fuel lines on a fuel injected vehicle. The pressure in some systems may be as high as 80 to 90 psi when the engine is running. So do not open any fuel line while the engine is running unless your fire insurance and life insurance are both paid up. Residual fuel pressure can remain in the lines for many hours after the engine has been shut off. To minimize fuel spray, wrap a rag around the hose or line before loosening it, or relieve pressure in the line using a procedure approved by the vehicle manufacturer (refer to a shop manual for details).

• Minimize distractions while working on your vehicle. This includes small children, pets, friends, spouses, in-laws or others who may distract you from your work. This will go a long ways towards reducing the risk of injury and making a mistake.

• Tell someone if you're going to be working on your vehicle outdoors or if you're going to be working underneath your vehicle. Hopefully, they'll know how to dial 911 should the need arise.

• If you're working outdoors and using power tools, make sure the extension cord you're using is rated for outdoor use, that the extension cord and tools are properly grounded (a "ground fault interrupt" outlet is recommended), and that the cord has the proper amp rating for the tools you're using.

Answer: Keep it inside a locked garage with an armed guard and Doberman on duty! Or, drive a car that nobody would want to steal. Seriously, there are some common sense precautions you can use to minimize the risk of your vehicle being stolen or broken into:

• Never leave the keys in the ignition, and never leave the engine running while you run into a store or drop something off. You car might not be there when you come back, and you might even be issued a ticket for such stupidity!

• Always lock your car, even when running short errands to the grocery store or leaving your car in your own driveway. A car thief will walk right up to an unlocked car in broad daylight, hop in and be gone in 30 seconds. Locking the doors won't prevent him from breaking into or stealing your car, but it will slow him down and may discourage him enough to pick on someone else's car.
• Never leave valuables (purses, briefcases, radar detectors, money, portable electronic devices, leather coats, etc.) in plain view. They encourage thieves to break in and help themselves. Either take the valuables with you or lock them out-of-sight in the luggage compartment.

• Avoid parking where you have to leave your keys with a valet or parking attendant. It's a simple matter to make a duplicate key and steal your car later. Use self-park facilities where possible.

• Park in well-lighted areas, preferably where there are people and/or traffic nearby. This discourages casual thieves from breaking and entering.

• If you're installing an expensive stereo system in your vehicle, think hard about getting a "pull-out" unit that can be removed for safe-keeping if you have to park the vehicle outside. Or at least buy a radio that has a theft-deterrent code that makes it inoperable if somebody rips it out of your dash.

• Install an aftermarket alarm system on your vehicle. There are many different types from which to choose. A loud, annoying alarm may draw attention, but doesn't necessary deter theft (more often than not, it will draw unwanted attention when it goes off accidentally and annoys your neighbors). A good alarm system should trigger if someone breaks into the car (senses the door opening and/or the sound of breaking glass), opens the hood or trunk, or attempts to tow the vehicle (motion sensor). What's more, the system should disable the ignition so the would-be thief can't start the engine once he gets inside your vehicle.

• Install a steel locking collar around your steering column to discourage thieves from "hot wiring" your ignition. A common means to stealing cars (particular GM cars) is to simply break into the plastic steering column with a screwdriver, pop out and bypass the ignition switch. The steel collar makes this much harder and usually discourages most would-be car thieves.

• Install a locking device (club or bar) on the steering wheel. These are inexpensive and discourage thieves by making it difficult to steer the vehicle. Thieves often get around such devices by sawing or cutting through the steering wheel. But a number of companies are now selling steel shields that install under the bar or club to make this more difficult. A shield will also protect the driver side air bag against theft.

• When driving in your car, you can minimize the risk of a "car jacking" by keeping your doors locked, paying attention to what's going on around you when stopping at an intersection and being ready to drive away should a stranger approach your vehicle.

Answer: (1) Air Filter: Check the air filter every other month. Replace it when it's dirty or as part of a tune-up. It is easy to reach, right under the big metal "lid", in a carbureted engine; or in a rectangular box at the forward end of the air duct hose assembly.

(2) Antifreeze/ Coolant: Check the antifreeze/coolant level weekly. Some cars have transparent reservoirs with level markings. Fill to level marking with 50/50 solution of antifreeze and water. Caution: Do not remove the pressure cap when engine is hot.

(3) Battery: Use extreme caution when handling a battery since it can produce explosive gases. Do not smoke, create a spark or light a match near a battery and always wear protective glasses and gloves. Have it checked with every oil change. Cables should be attached securely and be free of corrosion. If battery has filler holes, add only clear odorless drinking water.

(4) Belts: Inspect belts and hoses monthly. Replace worn, glazed or frayed belts. Tighten them when more than 1/2" of slack can be depressed between the pulleys. Vehicles with spring loaded belt tensioners require no adjustment. Replace bulging, rotten or brittle hoses and tighten clamps. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.

(5) Brake Fluid: Check brake fluid monthly. First, wipe dirt from the brake master cylinder reservoir lid. Pry off the retainer clip and remove the lid or unscrew plastic lid, depending on which type your vehicle has. If you need fluid, add the approved type and check for possible leaks throughout the system. Fill to mark on reservoir. Caution: Do Not Overfill.

(6) Engine Oil: Check oil every other fill up. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean. insert it fully and remove it again. If it is low, add oil. To maintain peak performance, change oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Replace oil filter with every oil change.

(7) Exhaust: Look underneath for loose or broken exhaust clamps and supports. Check for holes in muffler or pipes. Replace rusted or damaged parts. Have emission checked at least once per year for compliance with local laws.

(8) Hoses: Inspect belts and hoses monthly. Replace worn, glazed or frayed belts. Tighten them when more than 1/2" of slack can be depressed between the pulleys. Vehicles with spring loaded belt tensioners require no adjustment. Replace bulging, rotten or brittle hoses and tighten clamps. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.

(9) Lights: Be sure all your lights are clean and working, including brake lights, turn signals and emergency flashers. Keep spare bulbs and fuses in your vehicle.

(10) Oil Filter: To maintain peak performance, change oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Replace oil filter with every oil change.

(11) Power Steering Fluid: Check power steering fluid level once per month. Simply remove the reservoir dipstick. If the level is down, add fluid and inspect the pump and hoses for leaks.

(12) Shock Absorbers: Look for signs of oil seepage on shock absorbers, test shock action by bouncing the car up and down. The car should stop bouncing when you step back. Worn or leaking shocks should be replaced. Always replace shock absorbers in pairs.

(13) Tires: Keep tires inflated to recommended pressure (it helps to own your own gauge). Check for cuts, bulges and excessive tread wear. Uneven wear indicates tires are misaligned or out of balance. Keep a record of tire rotation. Rotate at the first 5,000 miles and every 7,500 miles thereafter.

(14) Transmission Fluid: Check transmission fluid monthly with engine warm and running, and parking brake on. Shift to drive, then to park. Remove dipstick, wipe dry, insert it and remove it again. Add the approved type fluid, if needed. Caution: Do Not Overfill!

(15) Washer Fluid: Keep windshield washer fluid reservoir full. When topping off, use some windshield washer fluid on a rag to clean off the wiper blades. In the winter months, pay attention to the freezing point of the washer fluid.

(16) Wiper Blades: Inspect windshield wiper blades whenever you clean your windshield. Do not wait until rubber is worn or brittle to replace them. Wiper blades should be replaced at least once per year, and more often if smearing or chattering occurs.

Answer: The muffler is an oval-shaped or cylindrical component made from coated and aluminized steel or stainless steel. Inlet and outlet pipes extend from the ends of the muffler. Inside the muffler, the exhaust gas flows through a series of perforated tubes and a tuning chamber to silence the exhaust. The perforated tubes inside the muffler cancel out and silence the pressure pulsations in the exhaust each time an exhaust valve opens. The muffler is located behind the catalytic converter in the exhaust system. On many vehicles, the muffler is positioned just behind the center of the vehicle, but space requirements on some vehicles demand muffler installation near the rear of the car. When the muffler is positioned near the rear of the vehicle, it runs cooler and may experience more internal condensation. Mufflers rust on the inside if excessive internal condensation occurs. The most common type of muffler is the reverse-flow design, which changes the direction of exhaust flow inside the muffler. Some mufflers are a straight-through design in which the exhaust passes through a single perforated tube.

Electronic Mufflers: Although electronic mufflers are not widely used at present, they may be installed on vehicles in the near future. In an electronic muffler system, sensors and microphones in the exhaust system sense the pattern of exhaust pressure waves. This information is sent to an on-board computer that controls loudspeakers in the muffler. The computer operates the loudspeakers to generate sound waves that oppose and cancel the original exhaust sound waves produced by the engine.

Tailpipes: The tail pipe carries the flow of exhaust from the muffler to the rear of the vehicle. Some vehicles have an integral resonator in the tail pipe. This resonator is similar to a small muffler, and it provides additional exhaust silencing. In some exhaust systems, the resonator is clamped into the tail pipe. Tail pipes have many different bends to fit around the chassis and driveline components. All exhaust system components must be positioned away from the chassis and driveline to prevent rattling. The tail pipe usually extends under the rear bumper, and the end of this pipe is cut at an angle to deflect the exhaust downward. Chrome tail pipe extensions are available in auto parts stores. These extensions are attached to the tail pipe with lock screws.